The first or last leg, whichever way you look at it!
Time: 2h
Length: 3.62miles
0.00miles Cardigan Quay SN 17744 45869 EAST: 217743 NORTH: 245868
We started our journey on the historic Cardigan Quay, where the medieval town's wall once stood. The ancient market town of Cardigan was established in 1093 by Norman Roger de Montgomery who built the castle and walled town.
In the Middle Ages, Cardigan became a major trading port and ship building area. In 1816 there were 300 sailing vessels registered at the port and more than 200 ships were built in its five shipyards. The port was also an important point of emigration to North America from Cardiganshire.
Improvements in road transport and the arrival of the railway resulted in a decline in sea transportation. However, the narrow streets, and 19th shop fronts have remained and provide a traditional shopping and cultural centre for local residents and visitors.
Although there has been some controversy with regards to the county boundary lines in this area, we decided to use the river Teifi as the starting point of our challenge as it has historically provided a natural boundary between the counties of Ceredigion and Pembrokeshire. Also, the Ceredigion section of the Wales coast path starts and ends in Cardigan, so it made sense to continue from this point as we started the Pembrokeshire section.
As the Pembrokeshire coast path officially starts in St. Dogmaels, we began by looking for the "Wales Coast Path" emblem of the dragon-tailed seashell to lead us. At 870 miles, the "Wales Coast Path" was the first dedicated coast path in the world to cover the entire length of a country’s coastline. But that is a challenge for another day, so off we went on the one we had set ourselves for this summer!!!
We crossed the River Teifi via the rather uninspiring concrete pedestrian bridge. A more impressive old stone bridge runs alongside it and is used by motor traffic. A stone bridge has crossed the Teifi here since the 15th century, before that, it is possible that wooden bridges spanned this section of the river.
We followed the main road beside an old warehouse on our right, before turning right onto St. Dogmael’s Road. Less than 60 meters up the road, just as it starts to bend to the right, a Coast path sign indicated a bridle path between houses on the left-hand side
0.15miles Turning off the main road SN 17740 45714 EAST: 217739 NORTH: 245714
As Poppit is our local beach we have driven this route countless times, so it was a pleasant surprise to discover that the coastal path has two options here, either follow the narrow and sometimes busy St. Dogmeal’s Road or turn off to the left along the bridle path before taking a path across the fields, coming into St. Dogmeals by the Abby. We chose the latter.
The route was well sign posted with the Dragon-Tailed Seashell emblem easily spotted on the gate posts as we crossed the fields.
The higher elevation of this route also gave us a great view over Cardigan town, as well as the wooded valley leading to Poppit Sands. Some of the fields we crossed are used to grow produce sold in the organic farm shop on St. Dogmael’s Road.
1.11miles Saint Dogmeals SN 16563 45755 EAST: 216563 NORTH: 245754
As we came into St Dogmaels, we left the fields to follow Mwtshwr, a narrow lane lined with modern bungalows. At the end of the lane, we turned right onto St. Davids Street and then immediately left onto Shringrig. From here you can see an open grassed area where the ruins of the Abbey stand.
The Abbey, which is dedicated to Saint Mary, was established in 1120 by the Norman Lord, Robert Fitzmartin, with Benedictine monks brought from France.
After passing the old school - now the church hall - and a car garage, the road bears right in front of the Abbey.
Opposite the Abbey on the right hand side of the road, we passed the mill pond which supplies the working water mill, Y Felin. Dating back to the 1600’s the mill once belonged to the Abbey. Today it has been restored and is one of only two working grain mills in Wales. The mill pond is also home to a variety of waterfowl.
We turned left and then immediately right after the Mill Pond and passed the church on our left hand side.
The church was built in 1852 to serve Christian villagers as St. Dogmaels rapidly expanded due to a thriving salmon and herring fishing and boat building trade.
We continued along Church Street until we reached the High Street at the end, and then turned left.
This narrow road snakes itself up a gentle hill, walled either side with brightly coloured houses and crowned with an impressive blue chapel at the top.
1.36miles The Pinog SN 16514 46070 EAST: 216513 NORTH: 246070
From here, the coastal path heads up the hill along the High Street, before turning down a narrow lane between two houses on the right-hand side. We decided to turn off sooner, and followed a route signposted "High street carpark and Public conveniences". We headed across the carpark to the bottom left-hand corner and took a tarmacked footpath down to the Pinog.
It is from this spot on the bank of the river Teifi that boats where built during the 1800’s, further contributing to the villages’ growth. It is possible to see Cardigan and a former wharf building from here.
We then turned left to follow the tarmac path along the Teifi and then up to Netpool, once the centre of the villages’ fishing trade. After admiring the views of the Teifi from this higher vantage point, we rejoined the coast path and continued along a tarmac path running parallel to the river, behind some houses before eventually emerging onto Pilot Street, near the pottery building.
We turned right and walked down the hill past The Ferry Inn, named after the ferry which once crossed the Teifi to the old castle area of Cardigan on the other side. The Ferry inn is one of three pubs in the village, a massive decline from the seventeen which were once there.
1.88miles Slip Road SN 16349 46805 EAST: 216348 NORTH: 246805
We followed the narrow road until it opened out in an area called Glanteifion. A grassed area on the right accommodates benches where views across the river and down the estuary can be enjoyed. A boat launch and slip road allows access into the river.
It is on this area of grass that the monument commemorating the official start of the Pembrokeshire coast path can be found. An arrow shows the direction to follow to reach the end in Amroth, just before the Carmarthenshire County border. Only 186miles (300km) away!!!
A Wooden Mermaid Sculture also stands here, commemorating the mermaid who saved the fishman, Pergrim’s life during a storm in 1789.
We continued along the road towards Poppit Sands. There is no separate foot path along the road however it is wide enough for cars to pass you. We walked under a canopy of trees before it opened out again by the Webley Hotel and views across the estuary and out to sea.
2.90miles Using the beach option SN 15777 48124 EAST: 215777 NORTH: 248124
The coastal path follows the road to the Poppit Sands car park. We decided to avoid the cars and walk along the beach instead. Just after the Webley Hotel, it is possible to bear right off the road onto a gravel track, which quicky turns into a mud path. We followed this path, crossed a stream using stepping stones, which are marked on the OS map as a ford, and continued around the sand dunes to reach the beach.
The ever-changing sand dunes provide an ideal habitat for the UK's only poisonous snake, the Adder. Keeping the dunes on our left we followed the highwater strand line until we reached the lifeguard’s boat house.
3.62miles Beach Café SN 15203 48558 EAST: 215203 NORTH: 248558
After leaving the beach and passing the lifeboat station, we crossed the road to reach the final landmark of this leg, the café and more importantly, ICE CREAM!!!